What is the Best Way to Look After Cedar Cladding and Keep it in a New Condition? 

Any exterior of a building is turned into something special by Cedar cladding. The grain of the natural wood plays with the light perfectly, and that unique smell never really goes away. And maintaining it in a pristine condition? That is where it becomes interesting. 


 

The majority of individuals believe that cedar care is complicated. It is not so much. The wood only requires treatment at the appropriate times. Fail to miss them and you will be having grey weathering, split boards and costly repairs to attend to later. 


 

The Real Story of Cedar Natural Aging 


 

Cedar desires to become silver-grey. That is what occurs when the UV rays degrade the lignin in the wood fibres. Other homeowners adore this worn-out appearance – it is full of personality. Some like the fresh honey-coloured look of new timber. 


 

It all depends on the camp you are in regarding your maintenance routine. When you are content with the natural greying process, you will find that your task is a lot easier. Clean it every now and then, inspect it and that is it. To keep that original colour, you will have to be more active in case you want to keep it. 


 

The time to start your first treatment. 


 

The new cedar cladding should not be treated instantly. After installation the wood must have time to stabilise. Mill glazing that shininess of the sawmill must wear off naturally. This normally requires three to six months depending on the climate of your area. 


 

It will be ready when the surface will feel a bit rougher to the touch. Water will sink as opposed to beading. That is your signal to begin to think of protection. 


 

Cleaning The Basis of Good Maintenance 

 

Cedar cladding requires cleaning before any treatment. Pipe pressure of a garden hose is not sufficient. You require something more detailed yet not abrasive to destroy the wood fibres. 


 

Most of the dirt and grime can be dealt with using a soft brush and warm soapy water. Work down, with the grain. Wash well – any soap will prevent the penetration of stain or oil. 


 

In case of stubborn stain or algae growth, oxygen bleach is more effective than chlorine bleach. It is less harsh to the wood and will not damage other plants. Blend as directed on the package, apply with soft brush then rinse. 


 

Power washing is enticing yet dangerous. This pressure can cause the grain to be raised which results in a fuzzy texture which is difficult to correct. In case you have to utilise a pressure washer, it should not exceed 1,500 PSI and you should hold it at an angle of 45-degree. 


 

Selecting Your Defense Plan 


 

There are three types of cedar treatment, which include, stains, oils and paints. They require various maintenance and have varying aesthetic outcomes. 


 

Transparent stains allow the wood grain to be visible through the stain but acts as a UV protector. They require reapplication after every two to three years. Semi-transparent stains provide greater protection and conceal part of the wood character. 


 

Organic oils such as tung oil or Danish oil seep deep into the wood fibres. They increase the grain pattern and offer good weather protection. The downside? In most climates in the UK they require reapplication annually. 


 

Paint also gives the greatest protection and covers the wood grain entirely. It is the most durable, which can last up to five to seven years between applications. However, after painting cedar, it is almost impossible to restore it to natural finish. 


 

The Process of Application 

 

Time is everything. Treatments should never be done in direct sunlight or when there is the forecast of rain within 24 hours. The best time is in the early morning or late in the afternoon. The wood surface must not be blazing hot. 


 

The majority of the treatments are applied using a brush, roller, or a sprayer. Brushing provides the maximum control and good penetration. Apply in small workable areas keeping a wet edge to prevent lap marks. 


 

One coat is normally not very effective but two thin coats are. The initial coat soaks and encloses the wood. The second one gives the protective cover. Allow the manufacturer recommended time between coats to dry. 


 

Common Problems 


 

Broken boards occur. Cedar is a temperature and humidity sensitive material. Small cracks tend to close by themselves when the wood expands. Bigger ones require care before water enters and makes them rot. 


 

Insect damage is manifested by small holes or by piles of sawdust. Insects in the UK do not pose a serious challenge to cedar cladding, except carpenter bees. This is normally sorted out by treatment with suitable insecticides. 


 

Metal fixtures leave dark lines running down the boards. They tend to weather off, but are accelerated by oxalic acid (wood bleach). 


 

Professional Assistance vs Do It Yourself 


 

The majority of cedar care falls in the DIY realm. Simple cleaning, inspection and application of treatment does not need any special skills. The instruments are common household objects. 


 

Professional repairs may be required in the structure. Sometimes, replacing boards, repairing flashing or correcting damage caused by rot will need carpentry skills and tools. It is reasonable to get quotes of specialists in case of major work. 


 

It is all about knowing your limits. Minor maintenance works ensure that the cost is low and you control the time. Major repairs that are poorly done may end up costing a lot of money in the future. 


 

Cedar cladding pays off when it is regularly maintained. A small and frequent is better than a big and infrequent renovation. When taken care of, the wood will last you decades.